Friends – I have to tell you that this was quite an awesome experience.  Unfortunately it was not conducive to photographs – it is a “drive through” of the battlefield, and being low light, there was no chance to stop and set up a tripod (we'll know better if we go back next year).They set up 23,110 luminaria (white paper bags with candles/lights in them) – one for every soldier – North and South – who died at Anteitam.  The luminaria were in rows and columns interspersed on either side of the road as you pass through the battlefield (from Rt 34 – about half way between Burnside Bridge and the Sunken Road) and continued up on toward the cornfield.  The scale was difficult to comprehend – the magnitude of the loss of life.  It is difficult to put it into words.I would encourage anyone within driving distance to consider this next year.  The illumination happens (weather permitting) the first Saturday of December every year.  Generally, there are living history events that take place at points of interest across the battlefield during the day.  The park closes early that day and gates open for the driving tour at 6 PM.Here are some hints if you want to try and do this:1.  Thousands of people do the drive through.  It is only open for one night.2.  Cars start staging along Route 34 several hours before the gates open.  Come in to Anteitam on Rt 34 from Boonesboro and you'll see the signs several miles out.  The traffic stages on the westbound shoulder.3.  Plan on committing several hours to the event – have a full tank of gas and be sure to hit the restroom before you get in line.4.  Be sure to turn off your headlights when you pull into the park – go through the driving tour with just parking lights (please).5. The tour ends on Dunker Church road (the way you usually go into the park) – don't make the mistake of trying to go in that way.6.  As we were leaving the park around 8:00PM, the cars along Rt 34 were staged for about four miles – don't know how long the wait was for the last guy in line, but I'm betting that it was significant.  We did witness two cars along the shoulder that either broke down or ran out of gas.7. There really isn't time to linger on the tour – they have four miles of cars to get through the park!  8. I did see some folks park in the town of Sharpsburg and walk up toward the National Cemetary with cameras and tripods – might be worth a shot, but I'd venture to guess that you'll either want to do the drive through or try to take photos from the distance – not both (if it is a cold and windy as it was Saturday).9. Plan on making a day of it – maybe stage along Route 34 around 4:00 or 4:30 and have picnic dinner10. Make a point of going if at all possible – it is well worth the effort.  This is something that any historian, and I'd venture, every American, ought to see.  For some, it's a beautiful display of lights for the holiday – but at it's core, it is a moving tribute to a time and a conflict that brought out nation together.  Noted Civil War historian and professor at Virginia Tech, Dr. James Robertson commented that “Before the Civil War everyone stated that 'The United States are such and such', but after the Civil War, everyone stated 'The United States is thus and so' – such is the importance of the conflict in forming our national identity.” (or words to that effect).